Resort season: fashion's secret shift to american shores

Every January through March, the fashion world explodes in a whirlwind of runway shows – Milan and Paris setting the tone for menswear and couture, followed by a New York sprint and a global circuit that feels increasingly frantic.

The enigmatic resort collection

But what exactly is a resort collection? Once a discreet affair, a luxury escape for discerning clientele, it’s now a spectacle, a carefully orchestrated pilgrimage to capture Instagram’s attention. The question, famously posed by The New York Times in 1989, remains: Is it simply an envy-inducing trip?

The tradition began in the 20th century, fueled by European high-net-worth individuals supplementing their wardrobes with seasonally appropriate attire – affectionately dubbed “beach pajamas” – before embarking on transatlantic voyages. Coco Chanel, a pioneer in this trend, established her empire in the French Riviera, launching jersey sportswear and boutiques in Deauville and Biarritz, a return trip scheduled for 2027. As leisure Travel became more accessible, the window for these ‘off-season’ collections widened, strategically positioning ready-to-wear offerings between fall and summer.

Initially, resort collections showcased open-toed sandals and breezy silhouettes. However, over time, they’ve evolved into more ostentatious and conceptual presentations. Now, European designers are increasingly heading to the United States, as evidenced by Jonathan Anderson’s upcoming Dior show at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Demna’s debut Gucci cruise collection in New York, and Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière following suit.

This season, the trend is undeniable: the U.S. isn’t just a stop on the resort circuit; it’s the defining location. Gone are the days of capri pants in Cannes – we’re seeing a surge in bermuda shorts in Brooklyn. It’s a deliberate, almost subversive, shift, signaling a new era for fashion’s most deliberately vague season. Chanel’s audacious use of historical locations – Cuba, for example – elevated the show to an event in its own right, showcasing a level of extravagance rarely seen in more traditional presentations.

The evolution of resort collections is a testament to the industry’s constant need to innovate and capture attention. It’s a calculated gamble, transforming a simple desire for seasonal attire into a globally televised spectacle – and redefining the very concept of ‘fashion season.’”n