Tokyo Fashion Week Grapples with Rising Designer Exodus

Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO) is facing a critical challenge as many of its prominent emerging designers are increasingly opting to showcase their collections outside of the Tokyo Fashion Week schedule, including in Paris.

Shifting Landscape and Maintaining Relevance

With 27 shows across six days, the SS27 season felt notably sparse due to the absence of several major domestic designers who chose lookbook shoots or earlier, off-schedule presentations.

“A lot of emerging designers now prefer to show outside of Tokyo Fashion Week timing-wise, and they are also trying to show in Paris,” says Kaoru Imajo, director of JFWO.

Longstanding brand Viviano skipped this season’s Fashion week, opting for a lookbook, reflecting a broader trend among designers seeking greater international exposure. Pillings by Ryota Murakami, a notable emerging talent, remained on schedule and garnered attention, expanding its offerings and securing international stockists.

“If you are a really young brand and you need attention, it’s a good thing [to show at Tokyo Fashion Week], but for us, once you reach a point, maybe it’s not as important to be on schedule,” says Ryota Murakami, designer of Pillings.

Murakami plans to showcase at Paris Fashion Week in September, hinting at potential future challenges and a shift in presentation methods.