Reformation's climate gamble: from anxiety to circular ambitions

The story of Reformation’s journey to ‘climate positive’ is a stark reminder of the challenges – and potential pitfalls – facing fashion’s greenwashing ambitions. It’s a tale of reckoning, strategic pivots, and a hard-won understanding of true sustainability.

A crisis of confidence

Launched amidst a shift in ownership and grappling with internal anxieties surrounding its sustainability commitments, Reformation initially faced a brutal assessment of its progress. IPCC reports in 2019 exposed a significant shortfall in emissions reductions, triggering a palpable sense of overwhelm within the company. As Kathleen Talbot, the chief sustainability officer, candidly admits, ‘It was really, really hitting us.’

A bold, risky target

Founder Yael Aflalo’s response – to ‘remove more emissions than we emit, and have a net-positive impact’ – set the stage for a radical goal: becoming climate positive within five years. This was a move fraught with uncertainty, as the very definition of ‘climate positive’ remained murky and industry guidelines were scarce. Reformation, essentially, was charting its own course, a high-stakes experiment in corporate responsibility.

Shifting sands and new leadership

The landscape rapidly changed. Increased scrutiny, tighter regulations, and a shift in leadership – with Hali Borenstein replacing Yael Aflalo – forced a reassessment of the original strategy. The brand’s ambitious growth trajectory, initially a key factor in setting targets, ultimately proved a significant obstacle to achieving absolute emissions reductions.

Focus on intensity, then reality

Initially, Reformation defined success by emissions intensity, a metric that, as experts now advise, falls short of capturing the urgency of addressing overall carbon footprint. The realization that growth was outpacing emissions reduction efforts prompted a critical course correction. ‘We know intensity versus absolute targets are not the same,’ the company acknowledged, recognizing the need to tie targets to actual units produced.

Progress and persistent challenges

Despite setbacks – notably failing to meet Scope 1 and 2 emissions targets – Reformation achieved significant traction in reducing Scope 3 emissions by 25% by the end of 2025. However, the brand’s reliance on air freight and the inherent challenges of scaling a circular economy remained persistent hurdles. The investment in carbon removals – 71,500 metric tons, exceeding its footprint by 125% – was a powerful statement, yet underscored the scale of the task ahead.

Circularity as the new frontier

Now, Reformation is pivoting towards a new, ambitious goal: becoming fully circular by 2030. This involves a fundamental reimagining of its business model, incorporating strategies such as rental, resale, and a commitment to sourcing 100% recycled, regenerative, or renewable materials. The brand's progress in downcycling, repairing, and circulating garments – 147,232 lbs of waste downcycled, 21,172 garments repaired – demonstrates a tangible commitment to this new direction.

A measured conclusion

While Reformation hasn't yet achieved climate positivity, its journey has been a valuable learning experience. The brand’s willingness to adapt, to confront its shortcomings, and to embrace a more holistic approach to sustainability, points towards a more responsible future for the fashion industry—a future where bold ambition is tempered with pragmatic action and a relentless focus on systemic change.