Met museum’s ‘costume art’ exhibition reimagines fashion as visual force
Andrew Bolton, the Curator in Charge at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, is challenging the very definition of fashion with his upcoming exhibition, ‘Costume Art.’ It’s a bold move – elevating garments and textiles to the same level of critical scrutiny as established masterpieces – and one that promises to fundamentally shift how we perceive the relationship between art and dress.
A new perspective on the ‘dressed body’
The exhibition’s core concept centers around the ‘dressed body,’ positioning clothing not as an accessory or illustration, but as a primary vehicle for visual and social expression. Bolton argues this reframes fashion as a foundational element of cultural formation, a concept brilliantly illustrated through a pairing of Rafaelle Monti’s 1854 ‘Veiled Woman’ with a 2020 Maison Margiela couture piece – a testament to the exhibition’s ambitious scope.
The installation itself is a meticulous exercise in juxtaposition. Photographer Paul Westlake and Anna-Marie Kellen employ striking gray backgrounds, strategically cropping images to emphasize the symbiotic connections between the artworks and the fashions. It’s a deliberate, almost surgical, approach to revealing the dialogue between eras and styles.
Julie wolfe’s assemblages: more than the sum of their parts
Central to ‘Costume Art’ is the work of artist Julie Wolfe, whose meticulously crafted assemblages form the backbone of the exhibition’s narrative. Working with Nathalie Agussol, Wolfe employs a ‘1+1=3’ methodology – combining art and fashion elements to generate unexpected, hybrid results. As Wolfe herself puts it, “I think this is brilliant of Andrew, because it sort of gives a different perspective on the pairings that are in the exhibition.”
Wolfe’s process is undeniably analog. Utilizing Exacto knives, scissors, and archival adhesives, she layers vintage book pages, paints, and draws, embracing the imperfections and irregularities that define her practice. “I wanted to make these pieces very much analog in themselves, very much like a human touch, not perfect,” she explains. “There are cut marks and there are some irregularities and I love that sort of beauty.”
Beyond the catalog: ‘the body electric’ keepsake
To deepen the immersive experience, The Metropolitan Museum will offer ‘The Body Electric,’ a limited-edition keepsake box containing a signed print by Wolfe and unbound pages allowing visitors to curate their own interpretations of the exhibition’s themes. This isn't just a souvenir; it’s an invitation to actively engage with the ideas presented – to consider the intricate relationships between art, fashion, and the human form.
‘Costume Art’ is published by Yale University Press and showcases a diverse range of iconic garments alongside seminal artworks, offering a provocative and intellectually stimulating experience. It’s a reminder that fashion, when viewed through a critical lens, possesses a power and significance that transcends mere trendiness.