Barcelona fashion week: a rebellion against the machine
Doblas. Photo: Courtesy of Barcelona Fashion Week
Barcelona was a numbers game – my first visit, coinciding with the 37th edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion. But beyond the statistics, a raw, unapologetic energy permeated the city, a defiant rejection of the tired tropes of established fashion capitals.
Shifting the system
The driving force behind the week isn’t just showcasing designers; it’s a deliberate attempt to carve out a distinct identity for Barcelona. As director Marta Coca explained, the goal is to inject more freedom into the schedule, encourage creative and commercial partnerships that actually matter, and question the relentless, unsustainable cycle of ‘more, more, more’ that dominates the industry. Frankly, in a climate where independent brands are drowning, it’s a remarkably astute approach.
From the established names like Custo Barcelona and Adolfo Dominguez to emerging talents like Boulard and XV Strange, there was a palpable sense of a collective desire to break free from convention. It’s not about imitation; it’s about forging a path that feels authentically Barcelona.
Standout collections
Adolfo Dominguez: The 50th anniversary show was a quiet affirmation of the brand’s legacy. Daughter Tiziana Dominguez leaned into slouchy fabrics and undone tailoring, echoing the effortlessly cool residents of the city. “We keep everything in the family—like Succession,” Adriana Dominguez quipped, a delightfully wry observation.
Txell Miras: Her collection, built on layers of beige and greige wool, cotton poplin, and neoprene, was a study in minimalist restraint punctuated by unexpectedly provocative drawings of couples in various poses. The footwear – elastic-strapped, sole-less creations – were a deliberate provocation, a playful rebellion against the tyranny of polished perfection. One seatmate suggested kitten heels, and I almost choked on my champagne.
Carlo Doblas: His collection, a stark commentary on current anxieties, featured strong tailoring and cascading fabrics, reflecting a sense of both control and collapse. But amidst the severity, a trio of shimmering 1920s-inspired dresses offered a surprising burst of joy – a reminder that even in the face of overwhelming pressure, beauty can still emerge.
Dominnico: The show was a whirlwind of color, buckled leathers, and whirling fringing, fueled by a vibrant cast including Violet Chacki and Sarah Paulson. Carmen Lomana’s appearance caused a collective gasp – a genuine, unscripted moment of awe. Dominnico is not simply showing clothes; it's cultivating a culture, a Lifestyle, a rebellion.
Doblas. Photo: Courtesy of Barcelona Fashion Week