Sicilian roots, north african dreams: a community forged in food and resilience
The clatter of couscous, the scent of saffron and simmering spices – a small kitchen in Salemi, Sicily, pulses with life. More than a dozen women, a vibrant mix of Tunisian and Sicilian heritage, work together, transforming simple ingredients into a feast that speaks volumes about integration and shared stories.
A decade of shared recipes and new beginnings
What began as a humble initiative ten years ago, the ‘Progetto Donna’ – a women’s project – has blossomed into a cornerstone of this small Sicilian town. It’s a place where the echoes of the mafia’s past are being deliberately overwritten with the warmth of community, one perfectly cooked dish at a time.
Inside Al Ciliegio, a property reclaimed from organized crime, the atmosphere is palpably different. Here, migrant women from North Africa and Sicilian locals aren’t just coexisting; they’re collaborating – sharing recipes, learning Italian, and building genuine connections. Salha Zaouali, a young Tunisian woman with piercing blue eyes, embodies this spirit. ‘It’s like a wedding in Tunisia!’ she recounts, recalling the communal tradition of women preparing couscous together – a powerful symbol of unity and shared experience.
From fishermen’s wives to independent voices
The project’s origins lie in the decades-long presence of Tunisian fishermen in Sicily, many leaving behind families in Tunisia. As more wives joined their husbands, a need arose for support and a space to forge their own identities. “Over time, we’ve had more than 100 women here,” explains Giusy Agueli, the project’s driving force. “They acquired their skills here and then put those skills to use in their daily lives.” Initially, husbands had to authorize participation, a barrier that’s now dissolving. “Now it’s changing,” Agueli observes, “The women who have been here longer are teaching the newcomers that they don’t need to ask. You can decide for yourself.”
The transformation is evident in the kitchen itself. Anna Maria Bongiorno, a Sicilian native, meticulously shapes dough into delicate brik, while others prepare the rich, flavorful fillings – mashed potatoes, tuna, capers, and parsley. The air vibrates with a bilingual symphony of Arabic and Italian chatter, a testament to the evolving social fabric of Salemi.
A legacy of reclamation
The story of Al Ciliegio is inextricably linked to the fight against the mafia. The property was once controlled by organized crime, and its seizure represents a significant victory for justice. Vito Puccio, president of Fondazione San Vito Onlus, which oversees the project, explains, “They said that if you want to find the mafia, you need to follow the money. This place was built with money made by the mafia. So the government seized the property.” The restoration process – a lengthy and costly endeavor – has transformed a derelict building into a thriving agriturismo, serving traditional Sicilian cuisine sourced from local farms.
“You have to try this—it’s filled with chocolate cream,” Amna Said offers with a wide smile, presenting a steaming Tunisian tea. It’s a small gesture, but one that encapsulates the warmth and generosity that define the Progetto Donna. The women aren't just cooking; they’re weaving a new narrative, one ingredient, one conversation, one shared meal at a time. The simple act of preparing Food has become a powerful tool for empowerment, a way to assert agency and build a future rooted in resilience and mutual support. And, as Salha Zaouali aptly puts it, “We support each other.”