California winemaker shatters records with ‘collage’ blends – a revolution in terroir
Jesse Katz, a name rapidly ascending in the world of fine wine, isn’t following tradition. He’s detonating it.
Breaking boundaries: katz’s ‘collage’ redefines american winemaking
Growing up surrounded by his legendary photographer father’s vineyard chronicles – Sassicaia, Margaux – instilled in Jesse Katz a meticulous eye and a deep appreciation for the subtle nuances of terroir. But instead of replicating the established formulas of Bordeaux, Katz is forging a new path at Aperture Cellars in Healdsburg, California, driven by a radical philosophy: prioritize place over pedigree.
He’s systematically dismantling the varietal-driven approach, moving beyond single vineyards and ultimately introducing ‘Collage’ – a series of intensely layered, proprietary blends that have already sent shockwaves through the industry. Taking cues from his father’s photographic technique – an aperture, carefully adjusted to capture the perfect light – Katz meticulously analyzes 300 individual lots across five A.V.A.s in Sonoma County, recognizing the staggering microclimates and soil diversity that surpass even France’s.
“There are more soil variations in Sonoma County than in all of France,” Katz explains, a statement that speaks volumes about his commitment to capturing the unique character of each lot. He deliberately embraces the cooler conditions of the Alexander Valley, not for prestige, but because the land demands it – a scarcity of suitable acreage in Healdsburg necessitates a laser focus on quality.
The results are astonishing. Aperture has achieved an unprecedented streak, including the first 100-point Malbec in U.S. history and the sole winery to secure 100 points for every vintage from 2018 to 2023. A truly remarkable feat. But Katz isn’t interested in simply accumulating accolades; he’s chasing a more elusive goal: to distill the essence of each vintage into a single bottle.”
This year’s ‘Collage’ release, a Red Proprietary Blend built from Cabernet Sauvignon alongside Bordeaux varieties, exemplifies this approach. The wine is a study in contrasts – muscular tannins balanced by a surprising lightness, a mineral-driven complexity that dances across the palate. The accompanying vinyl record by DJ Truthlive further elevates the experience, seamlessly blending the worlds of wine and music.
The White Proprietary Blend, a Savignon Blanc, offers a completely different narrative – nimble, textured, and infused with the bright notes of papaya and lemon. It’s a testament to Katz’s belief that the best wines are born not from rigid categorization, but from an unbridled exploration of potential.
“My aim,” Katz asserts, “is to convey a sense of place and time with every vintage.” And judging by the record-breaking results, he’s succeeding spectacularly. California winemaking will never be the same.”n