Shanghai fashion week: tailoring takes a back seat as chinese men shift to leisurewear
Tight green sweaters, furry shoulder pads, and buckled kiltie loafers – a decidedly unconventional collection – dominated the runways at Shushu/Tong’s Shanghai Fashion Week show this season. Yet, according to founder Liushu ‘Shushu’ Lei, this foray into traditionally feminine aesthetics wasn’t a deliberate move into menswear; it was simply ‘boys wearing girls’ clothes.’ The core menswear business remains a modest operation.
A market under pressure
The trend reflects a broader struggle within China’s domestic Fashion scene. As male consumers increasingly bypass local designers in favor of established global sportswear brands and readily available athletic wear, the market for traditional menswear finds itself struggling. Laura Darmon, head of buying at ENG Concept Store, notes, “It’s a pretty difficult time for menswear,” citing the dominance of European brands like Our Legacy as a key challenge for local labels.
The rise of leisure and ‘gorpcore’
The shift is driven by a fundamental change in consumer preferences. Streetwear’s reign is waning, supplanted by the ascendance of leisurewear and ‘gorpcore’ – a trend characterized by high-performance outdoor apparel. Brands like Arcteryx, Salomon, and Lululemon have become ubiquitous online, earning the moniker “the three treasures” of China’s middle class. Zemira Xu, founder of Tube Showroom, observes that male customers now have a significantly expanded range of outerwear and outdoor options.
Sportswear dominates
The benefits are already evident, with Anta posting record revenues of RMB 80.22 billion ($11.7 billion) in 2025 and Bosideng, the world’s largest down clothing company, recently bringing in menswear designer Kim Jones to lead its Areal sub-brand. Garçon by Garçon, a brand specializing in jackets and outerwear, is experiencing significant growth. These developments highlight a strategic pivot towards performance and practicality, a response to evolving male dressing habits.
A retreat to womenswear or functionality
However, this shift isn’t universally embraced. Many Chinese brands are retreating to womenswear or emphasizing functional, performance-driven designs – a defensive measure against limited ROI in menswear. Li Gong, founder of Shanghai label 8ON8, explains that “Chinese men tend to focus more on professional sportswear brands for their clothing, aside from everyday commuting attire.” 8ON8 itself has recently shifted its focus to womenswear, mirroring a similar trend seen in many domestic brands.
A tale of two businesses
Initially focused on tailoring, 8ON8’s menswear collection faced headwinds, leading to a strategic redirection towards its female customer base, largely due to adjustments in sizing. This contrasts sharply with its successful overseas business, particularly in Japan and South Korea, where menswear remains the primary focus. Kristian Johnson believes this demonstrates a crucial point: China’s market is a multitude of distinct ecosystems.
Navigating the local landscape
Element, a Shanghai-based multi-brand boutique, has cultivated a loyal male following over a decade by stocking a curated selection of international brands – Japanese designers like Khoki, and outdoor-lifestyle labels such as Nanamica and CMF Outdoor Garment. Its 60% male, 40% female customer base underscores the importance of understanding localized preferences. “They have high demands for practicality, fabric [quality], details, and craftsmanship,” notes founder and buying director Benny Zhu. Brands need to move beyond generic approaches and truly understand the nuanced needs of Chinese consumers.
Strategic investments for visibility
To capture male attention, brands are increasingly investing in activations – not just runway shows, but detailed insights into brand concepts, fabrics, and silhouettes. Xu recommends that brands cultivate a loyal following by sharing behind-the-scenes information, emphasizing the brand’s vision and values. Untitlab, known for its bold footwear, and Structura, with its minimalist menswear, are emerging as examples of designers who can thrive by offering a distinct point of view. Brands like Maison Margiela and Ralph Lauren are also making significant investments in the Chinese market.
Global brands adapt, local labels observe
Even French menswear brands are recognizing the potential of China. The French Menswear Federation’s showroom in Shanghai featured four designers, showcasing the willingness of international brands to adapt to local tastes. Ultimately, success in the Chinese menswear market requires a deep understanding of local conditions, climate, and consumption habits. The market is dynamic, complex and, frankly, challenging.