Holmes’s heel revival: gap, herbert levine, and the prim aesthetic dominating runways

Katie Holmes commanded the American Image Awards red carpet this week, sporting a custom tuxedo from Gap Studio anchored by patent ‘glove’ shoes – a look signaling a significant shift in contemporary Fashion.

A return to restraint

The event, honoring power players like Adam Goldenberg at Fabletics and Zac Posen of Gap, felt almost reductive in its focus, mirroring a broader trend: designers are increasingly embracing a distinctly prim aesthetic. It’s a move far removed from the maximalist tendencies of recent seasons, and one that’s being fueled, in part, by Holmes’s continued influence.

Let’s revisit 2019. The Khaite bradigan – a proto-quiet luxury piece – exploded onto the scene after being photographed on Holmes. Its immediate sell-out propelled the then-under-the-radar brand to international recognition. Now, we’re seeing a similar strategy at play with a custom Gap Studio tuxedo and Herbert Levine slingback pumps – a pairing that feels both nostalgic and deliberately curated.

The anatomy of a heel

These Herbert Levine pumps, characterized by their second-skin fit and remarkably high vamp scooping around the arch, are more than just footwear; they’re a statement. The ‘glove shoe’ moniker speaks to their snug design, concealing a surprisingly immodest toe coverage – a subtle yet pointed rebellion against the current emphasis on push-up bras and overly exposed extremities. It’s a fascinating juxtaposition, almost a coded resistance.

The trend isn’t confined to red carpets. Runways across the spring 2026 season – showcased at brands like Toteme, Courrèges, Wales Bonner and Céline, Proenza Schouler and Stella McCartney – all echoed this fascination with classic, almost severe, heels. Matthieu Blazy’s interpretation of Chanel’s two-toned court shoes, particularly, generated considerable buzz, with editors flocking to Rue Cambon. British Vogue contributor Olivia Singer described the effect as “subversive,” noting that “far from tradwife regression, the re-emergence of classic heels somewhat subverts the archetype by virtue of their context.”

Singer’s assessment is astute. These aren’t simply echoes of the past; they’re being reinterpreted for a contemporary audience, suggesting that ladylike pumps can be equally at home on a quad biking trail or navigating a flash mob of paparazzi. The shift represents a deliberate rejection of the fussy, often impractical, footwear trends of recent years. And it’s all being driven, in part, by the enduring power of a woman who knows exactly what to wear.