Dress revival: the hanky hem returns with a bold twist
This season, Fashion’s preoccupation with dresses has manifested in a fascinating, and frankly, somewhat chaotic, spectrum of styles. From a nostalgic embrace of the roaring ‘20s – drop-waists and all – to a refreshed interpretation of the linen shift, designers are deliberately courting a sense of unrestrained experimentation. But one silhouette is quietly asserting itself: the hanky hem dress.
The unexpected cut: a delicate disruption
Forget minimalist chic; the hanky hem is back, and it’s demanding attention. Named for its evocative resemblance to a handkerchief casually held at its center point, these dresses feature a deliberately asymmetrical, uneven hemline that often dips and folds at multiple points. It’s a playful rebellion against the rigid lines of recent seasons, a visual whisper of the ‘70s revival all around us – think bandanas, scarves, and those ubiquitous neck scarves that have become a surprisingly versatile accessory.
And frankly, it’s a natural progression. The proliferation of handkerchiefs, bandanas, and scarves as belts, tops, skirts, and neckwear speaks to a broader trend towards textural layering and unexpected silhouettes. This isn’t simply a nostalgic echo; it’s a deliberate statement about embracing the visually stimulating.
Daniel Zuchnik//Getty Images offers a perfect example of the trend – a pair of Miu Miu-inspired biker boots to ground a flowing hanky hem dress, showcasing how to translate this delicate detail into a powerful, confident look. Edward Berthelot//Getty Images similarly demonstrates the versatility with a lace ruffle dress from Mango, highlighting its adaptability as a blank canvas for accessorizing.

Styling the shift: less is more
The key to successfully incorporating the hanky hem dress into your wardrobe? Subtlety. Let the garment itself do the talking. Ditch the heavy jewelry; a collection of dainty, layered necklaces and delicate chain bracelets will suffice. A kitten heel – or, for a festival vibe, a buckled, Miu Miu-style biker boot – provides just the right amount of polish. Mango’s lace ruffle dress, for instance, is a prime example of this understated elegance. It’s light, neutral, and effortlessly lends itself to a multitude of styling options.
Consider stacking metallic cuffs – Chloé-esque bohemia, perhaps – or layering beaded necklaces and woven caps for an indie-leaning aesthetic. The possibilities are surprisingly broad. Prices range from £225 at Rat & Boa to £49.99 at Mango, with ASOS and Urban Outfitters offering more accessible iterations, like the Iisla & Bird Hanky Hem Mini Dress (£34) and the UO Dhalia Paisley Midi Dress (£43).
Shop the trend:
- Iisla & Bird Hanky Hem Mini Dress – £34 (ASOS)
- UO Dhalia Paisley Midi Dress – £43 (Urban Outfitters)
- Rat & Boa Alberta Dress – £225 (ratandboa.com)
- Mango Lace ruffle dress – £49.99 (Mango)
- Topshop Hanky Mini Dress – Now 70% Off – £26.70 (ASOS)
- Zara Collection Asymmetric Dress – £89.99 (ZARA)