Couture’s resurgence: exclusivity fuels a thriving industry amidst heat and new talent
While the broader Fashion industry struggles to regain momentum, haute couture is experiencing a surprising and robust resurgence, fueled by a persistent appetite for unparalleled craftsmanship and exclusivity among high-net-worth clients. The order books are brimming – a six-month waiting list isn’t uncommon, according to Sidney Toledano, president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM).
A challenge in craftsmanship
Despite this demand, the industry faces a critical bottleneck: a shortage of skilled artisans. This season’s sweltering heat, requiring extensive cooling measures at shows, underscored the logistical challenges. ‘With no air con, many top clients have historically avoided summer for that reason,’ noted Cameron Silver, a luxury brand consultant. Yet, Fall/Winter 2026 Couture Week featured a record 30 houses, signaling continued strength, with two significant debuts from Balenciaga and Jean Paul Gaultier.
Fresh faces and bold visions
Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, and Silvana Armani at Giorgio Armani Privé all presented sophomore couture collections, showcasing a new generation of creative directors. Duran Lantink’s debut for Jean Paul Gaultier immediately captured attention with its daring silhouettes and a defiant spirit – ‘spectacular, daring, fearless, a bit outrageous,’ commented Tiziana Cardini of Vogue Runway. The collections explored a range of themes, from fairytale escapism, as seen in Chanel’s opulent sets and designs—inspired by Jack and the Beanstalk and Jumanji—to a renewed appreciation for childhood, as reflected in Robert Wun's doodle-embroidered gowns.
Beyond the runway: global trends
Off-calendar presentations also garnered attention, including Olivier Theyskens’ debut co-ed show for Boloria, and Martin Margiela’s estate auction, which realized €1.385 million. The week also witnessed a notable presence of Indian designers, with Manish Malhotra making his Parisian debut and Rahul Mishra continuing to solidify his international profile, supported by Reliance Brands. Vaishali Shadangule, behind Vaishali S, presented her couture show off-calendar, reflecting a broader trend of Indian designers gaining global recognition.
Innovation and technological advancement
This season highlighted a commitment to innovation, with techniques like plasma integration at Iris van Herpen and skin-like body-molded pieces developed with silicone experts at Schiaparelli. The industry’s appeal persists, offering a haven of fantasy and a celebration of timeless artistry – a reality that continues to resonate with discerning clientele. Hermès has announced its first couture collection in January 2027, cementing the category’s continued growth and influence.