Cave unveils darkly romantic new bridal line – years after 'vampire's wife' collapse

Susie Cave, the enigmatic designer behind the cult ‘Vampire’s Wife,’ is resurrecting her brand with a strikingly different offering: a bespoke bridal and funeralwear collection housed within the opulent art deco surroundings of Eltham Palace.

A return to shadows and sensuality

Far from the subversive, playful aesthetic of her previous label, Cave’s new venture, ‘Susie Cave Weddings & Funerals,’ leans into a gothic romance, characterized by dramatic silhouettes, iridescent silks, and a palpable sense of secrecy. The collection, limited to just 25 made-to-order pieces, is being shown exclusively to a select few – Bella Freud, Florence Welch, and Vogue – fueling whispers of a dramatic resurgence.

‘It’s a surreal, strange, beautiful and secretive experience,’ Cave confided during a quiet photoshoot amidst the palace’s lavish interiors. ‘I want it to feel small and personal.’

The shift comes after a tumultuous period for Cave, marked by the closure of ‘The Vampire’s Wife’ in 2024, attributed to unsustainable growth driven by investors. She acknowledges the painful experiences – the tragic loss of her son, Arthur, in 2015, and her stepson, Jethro, in 2022 – have forged a resilience that shields her from conventional anxieties. ‘Past experiences have built a resilience and inner strength that leaves little room for ordinary apprehensions,’ she stated, a subtle yet poignant hint at the personal tragedies that have shaped her trajectory.

‘My dresses are a parade running through my mind each morning,’ Cave mused, recalling her design process. ‘Florence wanted to run off with everything there and then!’ Welch herself described the collection as possessing ‘a touch of magic,’ capturing the allure and powerful feeling evoked by Cave’s creations. Despite a previous foray into high Fashion with surprise runway appearances, Cave insists she is prioritizing the intimate, bespoke nature of her new venture. ‘I wouldn’t say I’m modelling again,’ she teased, recalling a recent unexpected turn on Haider Ackermann’s runway.

The collection’s key difference from ‘The Vampire’s Wife’ lies in its deliberate rejection of floral patterns, favoring instead the tactile richness of silk, silk-velvet, and organdy. ‘There’s not a flower pattern in sight,’ Cave explained, emphasizing the focus on texture and luxurious feel. ‘It’s all to do with the textures.’ And, crucially, Cave is taking her time, meticulously crafting each piece – adorned with capes, trains, veils, and embellishments – reflecting a commitment to quality and a refusal to compromise on her unique vision.

Nick Cave, her husband of nearly 27 years, offered a glimpse into his wife’s extraordinary creative process: ‘Susie appears to have a unique ability to freely tap into the imaginative world around us. She seems to draw her singular creations from thin air, from her reveries, from her intuitions.’ He added, with a hint of amusement, that their bed often bore witness to her nocturnal design sessions, covered in pages of indecipherable scribbles – ‘Next season’s collection,’ she’d simply reply.

With a new Kensington atelier and a roster of discerning clients including Keira Knightley and Greta Bellamacina, Susie Cave Weddings & Funerals is poised to re-emerge – not as a fleeting trend, but as a darkly romantic and deeply personal brand.