Bulgari bets big on bold: octo finissimo 37 signals a design shift

Bulgari is daringly redefining its flagship Octo Finissimo collection with the arrival of the 37, a significant departure from its celebrated commitment to miniaturization – a move that immediately injects a dose of unexpected swagger into the brand’s image.

A calculated retreat from skinny

For over a decade, Fabrizio Buonamassi Stigliani and his team have relentlessly pursued the boundaries of horological thinness, setting a dizzying series of world records. The Octo Finissimo, particularly with its groundbreaking 5mm Tourbillon in 2014, became synonymous with engineering ingenuity. But the Roman house is now strategically stepping back, prioritizing a more substantial presence and a bolder aesthetic.

The Octo Finissimo 37, measuring a comparatively chunky 2.35mm – a relative term, of course – marks a conscious decision to shift focus. This isn't a rejection of technical prowess; rather, it’s an acknowledgment that the Octo’s inherent design – its multifaceted geometry and integrated bracelet – demands a different kind of attention.

Design’s new canvas

At 37mm, it’s the first Octo Finissimo to fall below the 40mm mark, a detail that subtly alters the watch’s proportions, lending it a subtly dressy quality, almost reminiscent of Art Deco. Yet, the inherent sports DNA remains – a watch clearly designed for contemplation, not exertion. It’s a fascinating paradox, a deliberate blurring of categories.

The initial release features three iterations: sandblasted titanium, satin-polished titanium, and a polished yellow gold, each boasting a three-hand display and automatic movement. A minute repeater version, also in sandblasted titanium, is available for those seeking the ultimate demonstration of Bulgari's complications expertise. The reference 104351, with its selectively matte and satin-polished finish, is, frankly, a standout – a testament to the brand’s meticulous attention to detail. A true showstopper.

The understated elegance of the Octo Finissimo, often described as possessing a ‘Gerald Genta’ spirit – carrying the legacy of a legendary designer – now finds a new expression. Bulgari is playing the long game, and the 37 is positioned as the cornerstone of its elevated watch production, a strategic investment in a design that refuses to be confined to a single definition.

The case is undeniably robust, a deliberate statement against the relentless pursuit of extreme thinness. It’s a watch built to endure, both aesthetically and mechanically.