Bottega veneta cultivates a controversial future: mycelium leather takes center stage
Luxury house Bottega Veneta is making a bold, and potentially fraught, move: embracing mycelium leather as a core component of its upcoming fall 2026 menswear collection. The decision, spearheaded by creative director Louise Trotter, marks a significant pivot for the brand – and a test case for the broader luxury industry’s attempts to reconcile sustainability with tradition.
A risky gamble in a material market
The six-piece collection, crafted using Ephea – a mycelium-based material developed by Italian biomaterials startup Sqim – represents Kering’s continued investment in alternative materials. This isn’t a first foray; Balenciaga showcased a coat made from Ephea in 2022, but Bottega Veneta’s adoption signals a more substantial commitment, driven by a 10-year impact report outlining ambitious sustainability targets set by CEO Luca de Meo.
De Meo’s strategy, outlined last week, aims for 40% of Kering’s ready-to-wear line made from alternative materials by 2035 – a staggeringly high ambition. The shift is directly tied to a 30% reduction in leather intensity by 2028, alongside a 20% revenue stream generated through innovation, further solidifying Kering's commitment. However, the journey hasn’t been without turbulence. The mycelium sector has experienced a dramatic downturn, with prominent players like Bolt Threads and Mycoworks facing funding challenges and ultimately, closure.
Crafting tradition with a new material
The key to Bottega Veneta’s approach lies in replicating the house’s signature intrecciato weave using this novel material. Trotter emphasizes a meticulous process, “refining and perfecting through the technique and craftsmanship that are deeply rooted in Bottega Veneta’s heritage.” This delicate balance between innovation and established artisanal traditions – essential to the brand's identity – is what sets this venture apart. The collection exemplifies Kering’s Material Innovation Lab in Milan, which meticulously identifies, develops, and operationalizes alternative materials, a facility that has incubated Ephea itself.
“Beyond impact reduction,” Yoann Regent, Bottega Veneta’s head of sustainability, explained, “the Woven Mycelium range allows us to explore new textures and aesthetics, while maintaining the highest standards of quality. Scaling innovative materials is crucial to making this a viable option for other brands.”
A measured step, but a long road ahead
While the Woven Mycelium collection offers a tangible alternative for discerning customers, it’s unlikely to represent a wholesale replacement of traditional leather. But, as with the earlier, somewhat overhyped ventures into mycelium, this move ultimately acts as a crucial proof-of-concept. The success of Bottega Veneta’s gamble will undoubtedly shape the future of sustainable luxury, demonstrating that genuine, long-term commitment – not fleeting trends – is what truly matters.