Dinner parties reimagined: a british cook’s guide to effortless hospitality
Forget stiff etiquette and forced formality. Jago Rackham’s new book, To Entertain, is a deliciously subversive take on hosting, revealing that genuine connection—and a rumbling stomach—are the true hallmarks of a successful gathering.
A recipe for real: beyond the rules of the table
Part memoir, part cookbook, Rackham’s approach shuns fussy presentation and instead champions simple, satisfying food. Recipes range from a surprisingly unconventional tagliatelle with oregano and beef sauce (“not Italian…not really from anywhere, save [his] kitchen in London”) to comforting chicken and rice for ‘when you’re sick as a dog’ and a playfully bastardized ratatouille. There’s even a proper custard, a sticky toffee pudding and a trifle – all executed with a warmth that feels utterly unpretentious.
London’s most unconventional parties
The launch party at Rackham and artist Lowena Hearn’s east London home offered a glimpse into this ethos. The apartment, bathed in sunlight, featured a sculptural fireplace and a shrine of books surrounded by vibrant vegetal installations. Guests included a who’s-who of London’s creative scene: Alexa Chung, Isaac Rangaswami, Panayiota Soutis, and Christie Leigh. The atmosphere was decidedly ‘relaxed mess,’ a sentiment echoed by attendees like fashion and art writer Song-I Saba, who described it as “not often you find yourself at a party where carrots are artfully strewn across cabinet tops and spilling your drink is met with encouragement.”
A celebration of connection
Beyond the food and the fascinating guest list, Rackham’s book speaks to a deep desire for authentic connection. As chef-proprietor Egle Loit of Darling’s Eatery and Studio noted, “Getting everything ready for guests, offering whatever they’ve made themselves. It’s one of the most joyful things for me.” The evening flowed with Krone’s Cap Classique and Sandridge Barton wines, alongside a surprising visual element – edible pasta sheets that mirrored Simone Rocha prints and Dior tutus. Red wine stains adorned the tablecloth, juxtaposed with tins of Runan Caviar, a testament to the delightfully chaotic spirit of the occasion.
A warm embrace
“It’s a relaxed mess,” Rackham confessed, “which ties into the book really—this is about entertaining when you don’t want to feel formal, but it’s still something pleasant and easy. It’s not tied up with feelings of stress or anxiety.” The centerpiece, a towering domed cake filled with Cornish strawberry jam and rosemary syrup, resembled “the Titanic,” a fitting metaphor for the abundance and joy of the evening. Pink Squire, a London socialite, summed it up perfectly: “By the time we left, the tablecloth was drenched in red wine, there was rosemary icing on the floor, and three more dates had been added to my diary to have dinner parties with new friends.” Rackham’s work is a radical invitation to embrace the beautiful imperfections of hospitality – and to prioritize genuine connection above all else.