Studio nicholson takes runway, bets big on global expansion
London-born label Studio Nicholson is set to debut its first runway collection in a matter of hours, signaling a bold strategic shift aimed at establishing itself as a serious contender within the luxury landscape.
A decade in the making: from japanese roots to global ambitions
Founded in 2013, the brand’s journey began with a surprising connection to Japan, where founder and creative director Nick Wakeman initially sourced inspiration for its signature workwear-inspired aesthetic. Early stockists like Journal Standard and 1LDK proved pivotal, laying the foundation for a discerning fanbase before expanding into UK wholesale in 2010.
“We wouldn’t be alive without the Japanese,” Wakeman stated, recalling the initial spark of the brand. “It was a natural territory to start with.”
But the brand’s evolution hasn’t been a straight line. Initially focused on womenswear – a deliberate choice – Studio Nicholson added menswear in 2017, now operating with a 55% men’s and 45% women’s split. The label’s rapid growth, fueled by strategic investments from Rianta Capital, has propelled it to new markets, including South Korea, China, and the US.
Scaling beyond london: a calculated gamble
CEO Mark Suddards, previously instrumental in transforming Ganni into a global powerhouse, is leading this ambitious expansion. “Our strategy now firmly sits around how we take our niche East London brand and become more of a global player,” he explained. “How do we really assert our position against some of the contemporary brands: the Lemaires of the world, the Auralees.”
The runway show represents a significant investment, yet Suddards is confident it’s a strategically sound move. “When you look at what they invest into marketing and how they position their brands globally, of course, all of them do shows in Paris.”
Studio Nicholson’s pricing strategy – ranging from a modest £20 tote bag to a £2,400 sheepskin bomber – balances accessibility with a premium feel, utilizing high-quality European mills and factories. Its recent revenue growth, up 56% since 2023, speaks volumes about the brand's momentum.
Numbers don’t lie: a rising star
The brand’s DTC retail has surged by 87% in the last three years, alongside a 36% increase in wholesale accounts, including prestigious names like Mytheresa, Bloomingdale’s, and Selfridges. The average transaction value for DTC sits between £450 and £500, with a remarkable 25% growth in the first seven months of the current financial year.
But the brand’s success isn’t solely about growth; it's about adapting to regional nuances. From the fast-paced consumerism in Shanghai to the considered purchasing habits in Japan, Studio Nicholson is tailoring its approach to resonate with diverse markets. The recently launched Shanghai flagship store is already exceeding expectations, signaling a promising future.
A modular approach to luxury
Beyond geographic expansion, Studio Nicholson is doubling down on its core philosophy: modular design. “The customer comes back,” says Suddards. “Our store teams will say to us, ‘Oh, they were in last week to buy a trouser. He just popped back in because he wants the shirt; he’s seen the way it’s styled on e-comm.’”
The brand is strategically expanding its accessories and shoe categories, aiming for a 20% product mix contribution. A dedicated in-house designer is spearheading this initiative, alongside Wakeman, who remains a key figure in the brand’s evolution.
“They are still exactly the same, they’re still in the same fabric, and they’re never out of stock for our wholesale customers or our retail,” Wakeman affirmed, highlighting the enduring appeal of the brand’s core staples – the Dordoni and Sorte trousers, both dating back 16 years.
With a 40% share of revenue derived from trousers, Studio Nicholson is determined to maintain this strength while diversifying its offerings. Collaborations, such as the recent Asics partnership that sold out in Korea, are further broadening its market reach. Ultimately, Studio Nicholson’s strategy is simple: scale what's working, and build on a foundation of exceptional quality and enduring style.